Tuesday, February 08, 2005

In my family there are many traditions. Through-out my service these traditions have provided a ready supply of warm memories; enough to sustain one even during long absences from their source. In an effort to bolster, refresh, and remember (but not replicate) some familial activities, I have resumed a version of our Sunday evening dinner of pancakes or waffles. In many ways this simple meal, like the seasons, provided comfort and context well past my formative years. Even now the sound of batter hitting a hot griddle conjures up images of a slightly frazzled father mumbling about baking soda and sour milk, futilely attempting to manage the pans clattering about the floor.

When others hear of our Sunday night pancakes the general reaction is one of puzzlement, or thinly veiled amusement. What most people don’t realize is that pancakes-for-dinner is an ages old Danish practice. The Danish perfected the art of the pancake after my forefathers discovered fire and iron and have handed down, father to son, recipes in the traditional manner (grunting, chest beating, drinking raw eggs) ever since. The Danish word for pancake is kierkegaard, which literally translated means: a mixture of flour and eggs that questions our very existence.

Though the usual transmission of pancake recipes is from father to son, I have decided that in this case traditions may be modified. As you all know the pancake is the ultimate soul food. Don’t worry, in the absence of a skillet or griddle, your frying pan will serve well enough.

Mix together in a large bowl:

1 ¼ cups yellow cornmeal (check the feed store)
¾ cup all-purpose flour
4-6 tablespoons sugar (depending on your taste)
4 tablespoons dry milk powder
1 ¾ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt

In another bowl, mix together:

1 2/3 cups water (milk in the absence of dry milk powder)
4 tablespoons of unsalted butter, melted (or vegetable oil)
2 large eggs

Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and gently whisk them together, until just combined (over mixing makes tough cakes, old Danish secret). Expect a thin batter.

Lightly oil your griddle, heat, and then sprinkle water on the surface. If it sputters, pour a generous amount of batter onto the skillet (if the water boils, the griddle is not hot enough; if it evaporates, it’s too hot). Wait until the batter bubbles all around, some of them popping, then flip. You can use a spatula if you like; if you’re tough, just flip it with the pan. The pancake will raise slightly as it cooks, needing less than 45 seconds to finish. Eat. Next time I’ll share a tradition from my mother’s side: Saturday afternoon hide tanning.

P.S. A slightly different version of this recipe may be found in the newest edition of The Joy of Cooking.

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